alfcat, i looked at the link and saw the same parts we have mod for the MHZS players. Opamps and a lot of Capacitors. The best mod i like for all CD players is: From the DAC IC with a I/V resistor( or direct if no I/V conversion is needed) to the tubestage with only one Capacitor( in output of tubestage). See my shanling mods. The shanling t100se has the same DAC as the cayin/spark CDT17a a BB pcm1792( 2 times ).
I read through your posting in the past, able to get the logic behind but the photos you posted are a bit small. Really appreciate if you could send me some larger size photos so that I can follow through.
Will try to find the Schematics for this model later this week.
I don't know what is wrong with my CD33. When I turn it on, the lens keep popping up and down. It looks like it doesn't know WHAT to do. And even worse, the CD sometimes spin the other way round. I think the controller chip is dead as I changed the clock already and won't help.
Still no idea whether I should repair it or not. But frankly, with the new Spark now on hand, I realised that after these heavy modifications, the CD33 is not far behind the Spark 17A. There IS a difference but not a huge gap.
Dear Alfcat, if you got a schematic i can draw the mod i discribed before.
I you then take a few photo's of the three opamps after the DAC IC's i can pin point where to make the connections. It is very simple because i beleive the opamps have sockets.
About the MHZS player if you do not use them anymore take out the expensive parts like DAC board and jensen Caps and tell me if you want sell the rest. I can use it for replacement parts. A lot of friends have MHZS players( about 50 pieces ) and if there problems they come to me.
I tried to search for the schematics but I can't find any so far. There are owner's manual but it provides no schematics.
I am still wondering whether I should fix it or not. Will inform you once I made up my mind. Changing a NEW board with everything on will cost me HK$ 900 (=US$ 120).
Check the connector on the pcb board which the flat/ribbon cable is connected, see whether the shape had deform? this china make connector & flat cable very loudsy... after several time pluck in and out they will have contact problem then u will have a lot proble like spin on reverse, lens up & down n so on...
even a very slight changes in the shape of the connector will cause u the problem...
i had the sam eproblem previously, after change several cd head alos can solve it totally finally find out is the connector problem, if case u can't get the connector just solder our from old cd lens mechanism if u have any?
besides i think if we modify the circuit and change the 2c51 tube in cd33 to 5687 the sound will be better.
For the CD33, I checked the Flat Cable and the connectors already. They are all okay. The Chinese sales gave me two extra cables already the last time I visited them.
I guess it is the controller chip which has gone dead. The player cannot open the tray and even power on, the CD won't spin. Just the "click click" alike sound from the head. The head will sometimes more back and forth slowly too. But likely it is not picking up any data.
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