1. Chasis -- HK$ 600 should give you a pretty good chasis. However, you may have to buy the KNOBS separately if you want good quality ones. Average is around $ 40 each. ON / OFF + Volume = $ 80.
2. Power Supply -- a very nice one is just around $ 300.
3. If you already got the PCB (I think you have the Marantz 7), getting the components can cost you a fortune. Resistors are cheaper; DALE is good at a reasonable price. Next come HOLCO and then RMG. DALE is just a few dollars a piece. Holco can go up to $ 1x / piece. RMG can be over $ 20. Capacitors are more expensive. WIMA is cheap but not very tube like. Jensens are good at a much higher price. Depends on your TASTE and your budge to choose your capacitors.
4. Sockets --- Cardas and some others can be very expensive. CMC sockets are good choices at reasonable price (<$100 pair). You need two pairs, one in and one out.
5. I won't suggest using 東京光音 Volume. If you want Cheap Volume switch, you can use ALPS; just around $ 50 or so. Ladder type (good ones) are much better but at a very high price. Mine is over $ 800.
6. Grounding is always challenging. Better have someone to guide you around and you need to do some testing. Different people have different grounding preference.
7. Wiring -- don't let power cables to sit next to signal cables. Wiring method is important too to avoid interference.
If you need further details, drop me an email at alfchan@netvigator.com with your mobile phone number. It is much easier to talk over the phone.
Don't publish your number here.
Accphoto has provided you with very useful information. I still have one of these boards left which uses LM555CN chip set. If you want it, I can give it to you. I think I assembled it myself last year. Check the photo.
I tend not to use this type of board but follow closely the procedure mentioned by Accphoto; turn on the Pre-amp, wait 20 seconds or so and then the Power Amp. When you shut down the system, just do the reverse.
BTW, I have dis-assembled my set of M7 and will re-construct it again (since it is no longer beautiful after so many modifications). Will share with you the photos later.
For the time being, I will have to stick onto my Pass 1.7.... ha..ha. :wink:
I am not an expert here but I would try the following arrangement. See if this is better.
You said you can't find the +ve and the -ve for the 12.6V on the PCB. I think the 12.6V should be for the 12AX7; if so, it doesn't matter. You can connect either to the filament, there is no polarity. However, make sure you ground the 12AX7 -ve.
Oh, glad to hear that you finally got the M7 running.
Funny to say that my Marantz 7 got "problem" as well. Two days ago, I sent photos to Sound Explorer and asked them if I can further improve my M7. Brother Tong said I have used WRONG values for my capacitors ... ha.ha..
I asked him what can I do then? He suggested me swapping some of the capacitors and get some new.
Just finished doing everything this afternoon. "WOW" -- is what I would say about this upgrade. The female vocals sound MUCH MUCH better; the sound stage is more open and the bass is much improved as well. Still need to run in the BIG 2.2uf at the rear ...... see how they go by then.
8 x Nichicon 10000u 63V capacitors. What's the difference if I replace them by 2 Jensen 15000u 63V
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icefireman,
8 x 10000 = 80,000uf
2 x 15000 = 30,000uf ONLY. Assume this is for ONE channel, still got a total of just 60,000uf.
Any reason for reducing the capacitance? Only if you know the effect of reducing / replacing the caps, I would rather NOT use Jensen as an "experimental tool" as they are not cheap at all.
